the Long White Cloud

The Maori people appropriately named the South Pacific islands (known as New Zealand), Aotearoa, which is loosely translated to "The Land of the Long White Cloud". Never have I seen such brilliant formations of white clouds so prevalent. The photogenic white ceiling fixtures follow you wherever you go. Clear and sunny skies are overrated in this geographical gem! The clouds are ubiquitous, as if to remind you that you are still under one roof.

But beneath is where the marvels reside. Within short distances, the geography can drastically shift from land to water, valley lows to mountainous highs, and marshy soft to rock hard. All the while, permeating gentle tranquility throughout. This is what makes New Zealand a natural wonderland. Picturesque and radiant coastlines, volcanoes and volcanic lakes, far-reaching flat plains, sunken valleys and towering snow-tipped peaks, mirror-like lakes, deep dark caves, bubbling geysers, dense green forests, ancient glaciers, and ever-flowing waterfalls. Sure, you can find these wonders in other parts of the world. But New Zealand is one-stop shopping!

In addition, the primary inhabitants of this spectacular wonderland are not the humans, making it a refreshing escape from pollution and chaos. Sheep rule this land, and easily outnumber the humans ten-fold. Massive herds of woolly bodies, each with their heads buried in the green pastures, cover much of the landscapes. But the main attractions are the exotic creatures, such as penguins, kiwis, countless other birds, sea lions, and whales. NZ is a place where you can see them in their natural habitat, with little effort. I saw a yellow-eyed penguin in a slumber on the sandy beach at Otago Peninsula. At Nugget Point, below the lighthouse were sea lions diving in and out of pools formed in massive ocean rocks. And on a morning at Surat Bay, I found myself on a beach with no one else, except a sea lion playfully flipping and flopping along the shallow shores and eventually waddling onto the sand to bark at me (probably telling me "go away intruder!").

With the exception of Aukland and a few others, there are no major cities in NZ. Most are small towns with one grocery store, one gas (petrol) station, and maybe one bank. And many basically form around a short section of the highway, where you slow down to enter, and before you realize it you're already exiting.

The Route...

I did a Southern loop of the South Island, starting and ending at Christchurch. Starting with a hiccup, I was chosen for a random search as I embarked at the airport. (Perhaps it was my thuggish appearance!). All my luggage was dumped out and belongings fumbled through. The Kiwis do not play around when it comes to outside food. (Advice: Do not bring or claim ANYTHING).

First, I traveled down along the vivid blue-green shores of the east coast (Oamaru, Moeraki Boulders, Otago Peninsula). Then, down to the very isolated and gorgeous Catlins coast (Kaka Point, Nugget Point, Owaka, Cannibal Bay, Sura Bay, Purakaunui Falls, Florence Hill Lookout, Cathedral Caves, and McLean Falls). Then, up to the calm and quiet (Lake) Te Anau, and drove the unbelievably scenic Milford Road to the mystical Milford Sound (Key Summit, Lake Manapouri). Then, to perhaps the most touristy destination of Queenstown (Glenorchy, Paradise, Arrowtown). Then, to the peaceful (Lake) Wanaka. Then, along the bright blue Lake Pukaki, to reach the isolated Mt. Cook Village, uniquely nestled in a bay of the NZ's highest peaks (Tasman Glacier/Lake, Hooker Valley/Glacier/Lake). And finally, quick stop at Lake Tekapo and back to Christchurch.

My itinerary was loosely planned, but it was tailored from on one of the driving routes listed on the very impressive www.newzealand.com/travel (NZ Map, Driving Routes). By far, one of the best designed and intuitive websites I've ever used and browsed!

This little birdie went to heaven...

Unfortunately, the human intrusion comes at a cost, particularly in the reality of road kill. I personally am responsible for the death of three little birdies. Birdie #1 was a little bird perched on the road. By the time I spotted him, I could take no evasive action. Next thing I do is look into the rear-view mirror to search for evidence. Poof! I only see a puff of bright yellow feathers. I was not sure if I indeed hit Birdie #2 or not until I stopped to take pictures, and returned to discover an unlikely car emblem on the grill of the car. By amazing odds, #2 had gotten stuck in the grill (perhaps to haunt me)! My emotions wavered between uneasiness and delirious excitement from the rarity of the situation. And birdie #3 could have been avoided it's death if it had flown off the road instead of back towards it. (Note to PETA: I did not intentionally nor knowingly use my car as a deadly weapon).

Life, on the road...

NZ hostels are generally very friendly, clean, and spacious. Almost all guests cook and eat in shared kitchens and lounges. Unfortunately, NZ does not offer much in traditional foods for me to explore and indulge. Plus, eating out is very expensive, and restaurants are usually inconvenient. They close early or whenever they choose to, without specifying closing times ("Open... 'til Late"). The lifestyle is refreshing to see, compared to the workaholic mentality of the States.

On this trip I met people from Israel, Germany, Australia, UK, Holland, Japan, Korea, California, some Kiwis, and even a guy that lives a few miles from where I live now. The best part of staying in hostels is meeting people from from all over the world and the great conversations, learning about different cultures and varying perspectives.

The Return?...

I don't know when, but I plan on returning to New Zealand. There is the North Island to see, as well as more of the South. A must do for the North is the Tongariro Crossing, a day tramp through volcanic lakes and mountains. And for the South, there is the Milford Track and the Routeburn Track, both multi-day tramps through one of the most beautiful regions in the world. Until then...

Cheers!

Photo Journal...

New Zealand [Part 1]

New Zealand [Part 2]

New Zealand [Part 3]

New Zealand [Part 4]