Thursday, July 13, 2006

Siena e Milano

Day 27-29 (May 30 - June 1, 2006)



Before Siena, we made a quick stop in Pisa so my cousin could see the tower. The train ride through the Toscana region featured rolling green hills, fields of bright colorful flowers, and stretches of vineyards and agriculture. We arrived in Siena late afternoon, and found a last minute accomodation through the tourist office which was closing. But as I have learned through my travels, things always work out in the end. The tourist office found us a spacious apartment with a kitchen and two twins and a double. The quaint interior consisted of brick walls and antique furnishings. And it was inexpensive.



I love the vibe of Siena. Regretfully, our stay was too brief. But the city's charm still left a lasting impression. Uniquely, the city is built on hills. The alleyways and streets dip and rise liberally. One instance, you are viewing the top of rosy roofs and green trees. And the next, you are hiking up alleyways through the shadows of surrounding buildings. And if you peer beyond the city's perimeter, you can get a glimpse of Toscany's signature landscapes.

For dinner, we ate at a family-run trattoria. For the first dish, I ordered thick hand-made pasta. It was very very al dente. For main course, I ordered veal in white wine sauce. The meal was decent. A sudden stream of customers filled the place as we arrived. So the owners were flustered because I don't think they were used to serving a full restaraunt.





Next, we headed to Milan. As the capital of fashion, I expected the city to be glitsy and sheen. But instead it seemed dreary. As we walked through the streets, we noticed that many of the buildings were scribbled with spray-paint. Typically, you see these things in alleyways and other low traffic areas. But this stuff was blatantly seen next to shopping windows on the main street buildings. And to make things worse, they were tasteless tags! (I do have an appreciation for artistically done graffiti). I was quite shocked. For a city renowned for setting trends and that is so focused on image, the last thing you would expect are spray-painted buildings.

For dinner, we ate at Trattoria Milano, which was recommended in my travel book. Although the prices were higher than most previous meals of my trip, it was still very delicious. In fact, everything is more expensive in Milan compared to the rest of Italy. The service was fast and the portions were quite big. The dishes are simple and delicious, just how I like it. We ordered Risotto alla Milanese (risotto made with saffron and white wine), Osso Buco (braised veal shank), Cotoletta alla Milanese (breaded veal cutlet), roasted artichokes, and of course local red wine. The Risotto was very good, but when served with Osso Buco, the combo makes my stomach growl and mouth water just thinking about it! The Cotoletta was perfected prepared and oh so tender and crispy. We could hear the chefs pounding the veal cutlet in the kitchen everytime a Cotoletta was ordered. The artichokes were good, and the wine was excellent. Another most satisfying meal. Buenissimo!




It was great traveling with Uli and Kevin. A top priority was to plump our bellies and get sauced up! The uninhibited indulgence in local food and wine was as big of a priority as sightseeing itself. My travels with them was very much a "food tour".

Overall, there is not much to do in Milan except shop. When I think of Italy, I think of food, culture, and history. If you think of Prada and Gucci, then Milan is the place for you. Otherwise, there are much more worthwhile destinations to visit in Italy.

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more photos: siena e milano

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next: milano->paris->home

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