Thursday, June 29, 2006

Nice et Monaco

(May 25-27, 2006)

Day 22


In route from Florence to Nice, we discovered that there was a strike in Southern France. So we might have to stop at the border of Italy and France and take a bus from the border to Nice. From personal experience and from what I've heard, it seems the French go on strike habitually. When we arrived at the border city of Ventimiglia, the train stopped, shut down, and remained that way. There were no announcements. No conductors in sight to inform passengers of the situation. Everyone was in a state of wonder. After 45 minutes, the train finally powered on and started moving. But then at the next stop, the train powered off again. This time two police officers walked down the train, checking inside every cabin. Again, the passengers were left in wonder.

Despite the ineffeciency of the trains, the view was incomparable. Our entire route traveled along the coast of the Italian Riviera and then the French Riviera. On one side, we saw rocky cliffs, bright blue Mediterranean Sea, and tiny islands. And the other side, we saw deep valleys and massive green mountains sprinkled with rosy houses. My face was glued to the window the entire time!

Eventually, we arrived in Nice early evening. Checked into our accomodation. And headed to the beach. Nice is not a destination for sightseeing; it is one for relaxation. The main (and only) attraction is the gorgeous beach, where the vivid blue-green sea meets a bed of smooth pebbles. We strolled along the boardwalk, and then settled down onto the beach and skipped pebbles on top of the crystal clear tide.


Day 23


Day-trip to Monaco. The second smallest independent state in the world had been completely transformed into a race track. The streets were lined with stacks of tires, barriers, chained linked fences, and large bleachers. We had arrived during the Monaco Grand Prix (Formula-One race). The previous two days were practice runs, and the following two days were qual's and the final race. Fortunately, were arrived on a rest day because otherwise we would not have been able to access the city without a admission pass. (Many of the Formula One drivers live in Monaco because of there are no taxes). We walked to the Monte Carlo casino, but did not go in because it cost 10 euros just to go in. We then walked down to the beach. There were a few topless sunbathers... too bad they were all old and ugly... no supermodels.

Monaco is small and compact, but super-dense with wealth. Ritzy hotels and resorts are crammed on the slopes of coastal mountains, where every building features panoramic views of the bright Mediterranean Sea. Every other car driving along the winding streets is either a Ferrari, Bentley, Lamborghini, or Rolls Royce. The prevalence of the luxury car in Monaco is equivalent to that of a Honda/Toyota in California. And the waters are populated with large extravagant yachts in pristine white.

We returned to Nice and ate dinner there. I ordered Provençal Beef Stew w/ Ravioli. It was excellent! Kelly ordered Salade Niçoise (local specialty), and Grace had pizza w/ ham and artichoke. And each table had a bottle of chili oil that was so good that we drenched our food in it. We were all very satisfied with the quality of the meal.


Day 24


I woke up extra early so that I could absorb more of the Mediterranean sun. Grace and Kelly had left for Paris before I woke up. I ate breakfast and spent a couple hours at the beach. It was great! There was hardly anyone on the beach. Then, I was headed back to Zurich to meet up with Uli and my cousin, who had just arrived. They were both just starting their vacations.

I love traveling solo. It is so much easier to meet people from all parts of the world. All you have to do is mutter a word or two in English, or sport a book with a English title. And before you know it, you are chatting away with someone you just met. And it all starts with a simple "Where are you from?". Not long after I get on the train, I met a couple from London. They were on their way to Monaco to see the Grand Prix. The husband is a huge fan of Formula One racing, and could hardly contain his excitement. They said the tickets are extremely expensive. And when they arrive in the mail, the package includes earplugs! We also ended up on the topic of driving through Italy, and the husband told me that there is a saying about Italian driving, "The Italian definition of good driving is good hospitals!"

After transferring trains, I met Salsa (I think it was short for "Salsabene"), who was from Montreal (originally from Ottawa). She was Arabic, born in Canada. And just finished undergrad and starting Dental school in the fall. She had already spent three weeks in France. She told me about how she rented bicycles with her friends, rode from vineyard to vineyard in Bordeaux, and got quite sauced up! And also told me that on one of the trains she rode in France, the cart she was on somehow got disconnected from the cart in front! They were stranded in the middle of nowhere for two hours! I never imagined that this type of thing actually could happen! After realizing that it was missing something, the runaway train had to reverse all the way back to reconnect. Now that sucks!

It was another long day of trains and I got motion sickness while winding through the mountains of Southern Switzerland and Northern Italy, but once again I was handsomely rewarded when I arrived in Baden. Uli cooked my favorite, Spätzle! I was fattened up with Salad and then Spätzle plated with Filet Mignon and Asparagus, and washed it down with a glass of excellent Italian red wine (Amorone della Valpolicella). It was indescribably delicious and satisfying! I attacked the food verociously, but still couldn't finish all my Spätzle. This was something I deeply regretted the next day because I was still craving it!

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monaco



nice




more photos: nice et monaco

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next: cinque terre

Tuesday, June 27, 2006

Pisa e Firenze

Day 20-21 (May 23-24, 2006)

Pisa.

We left Roma on the first train to Pisa, and arrived around 11am. Although the only thing to see in Pisa is the tower, it is definitely still worth making a quick stop there on the way to your next destination. It is quite amazing to see how much the tower leans in person. For lunch, I ate a delicious sandwich of Focaccia, prosciutto cotto, pomodoro (tomatoe). Basically we arrived, saw the tower, took pictures, ate lunch, and left.

Firenze.


We arrived in Florence late afternoon. Our accomodation was a spacious room in a large residential flat. The charming room had its own bathroom, three single beds, an old dresser and table, and a large window. We wandered the streets for the remainder of the evening. Immediately, I felt the relief from cacophonic Rome, replaced by the laid-back ambience of Florence. It is no wonder why so many renowned artists chose here to be there home. For dinner, we bought take-away pizza (Prosciutto e Funghi) and ate it on the steps of the Duomo as we people-watched, although most people had already retired to their homes. Supposedly, the famous form of Italian ice cream that non-Italian-speakers know as "gelato" (it just means "ice cream" in general) was invented in Florence. So I declared a mission to hit up every recommended gelateria (total of five) that was listed in my travel book (Lets Go)! On our way back to our room, we conquered our first gelateria. Here I had the best Tiramisu flavor ever! They layer the ice cream with espresso-soaked cake like the actual dessert, and it had strong hints of rum!

On the next day, we started with an "Italian breakfast" (pastry and cappuccino). And then went to the Accademia to see Michelangelo's David. There was already a line at 8:30am, and it was raining. The queue hardly moved, and there was a second queue for groups, which had priority. The museum was not big, and not much to see other than "David". Before this trip, I dismissed "David" as just a sculpture of a naked man. Oh how I was wrong! The amount of detail and realism from the entire pose down to the veins and knuckles was awe-inspiring! And then you factor in the fact that he also sculpted the Pieta and painted the Sistine Chapel! Michelangelo is truly a wonder.

Then, we went to the Uffizi, which displayed many paintings by famous artists (i.e. Michelangelo, da Vinci, Raphael). The highlight was the exhibit "Mind of da Vinci", which displayed Leonardo's notes and sketches of diagrams and gadgets in his own cryptic handwriting (forward and backward!). Da Vinci is a genius in all aspects. He utilized science to advance his artwork, and represented a perfect harmony between science and art. A man of symmetry and math, elaborated with imagination. In this respect, similarities can be drawn between him and Antoni Gaudi. Da Vinci's mind must have never slept; constantly analyzing, calculating, hypothesizing, and formulating.

For dinner, we ate at a trattoria, which are usually smaller than other restaurants. It was small and full with customers, and had an intimate vibe, quaint decor, and great food. I ordered Trippa alla Florentina (tripe in a red sauce, topped with mozarella). I actually thought I ordered something else. It was definitely a local dish though, which was the objective. It was good, but too much tripe for a single person. We also shared Bruschetta, which is also a local specialty. Then we concluded the night with more gelato! We failed our gelateria mission (one no longer existed), but we did go to most that were on our list.

Florence is a mecca of art. It's history is rich with artistic creativity. Thus, it is natural that today it is populated with countless museums as homage.

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"All the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles are from Florence." -- me

more photos: pisa e firenze

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next: Nice and Monaco

Thursday, June 22, 2006

Roma e Città del Vaticano

Day 18, 19 (May 21-22, 2006).


Roma is the ultimate city for sightseeing. The city is large and crammed with ruins, piazza's, and monuments among modern buildings that stretch for entire blocks. You could spend an entire week in this ancient city and still miss out on something. But you may not want to stay that long. In two days, we managed to visit the most well-known sights (i.e. Colosseum, Forum, Spanish Steps, Vatican City, Sistine Chapel, St. Peter's Basilica). Rome is definitely a must-see in Italy. The ancient remains are awe-inspiring by the sheer fact of its age and history. But as a city, it did not impress me. Speaking in terms of vibe and ambience, Rome is essentially one big tourist trap. All the large attractions involve extremely long lines. I felt like I was at a Six Flags theme park. The large herds of human cattle can induce cases of claustrophobia. And this was not even considered peak season yet! The public transportation system in Rome is pathetic. The subway system is inefficient, poorly planned, and old. And the buses were infrequent when we had to ride the bus because the metro closed at the ridiculously early time of 10pm. The worst mistake was purchasing a public transportation pass (Roma pass)... complete waste of money! I heard it just gets worse and more run-down the further south you go in Italy.

On the second day, we visited Vatican City. The Vatican is its own state... a city within a city. Inside includes the Vatican Museum (Sistine Chapel) and Basilica di San Pietro (St. Peter's Basilica). We arrived outside the Vatican Museum at 10am. The never-ending queue stretched for several blocks along the walls of the Vatican. We we were not admitted until noon! Two hours in the sweltering heat! And to exacerbate the suffering, the Vatican enforces a dress code of no exposure of knees and shoulders. But once we got in, it was all worthwhile. The Sistine Chapel is one of the most amazing displays of unimaginable artwork. Paintings on the ceilings were done with such three-dimensional realism. Long stretches of what appears to be intricate stone carvings are actually ingenious use of shading and the perception of light and shadow. Michelangelo is unbelievable! His masterpiece on the ceiling made me need a chiropractor. Although he needed one more than me. I only endured less than an hour of staring up. He had to this everyday of over the several years!!! We then visited the St. Peter's Basilica. Gargantuan! Even the marble statues inside are grand and commanding. I was most excited to see Michelangelo's famous La Pieta. But to my disappointment, they had it barricaded off to where no one could get a close up view. In addition, it is guarded behind layers of bullet-proof glass because some maniac attacked it with an pick a long time ago.

Roma isn't a meca for great cuisine. I didn't find any local specialities to indulge in. Of course, there's pizza and a gelateria on every corner. My favorite is the typical Italian breakfast. Go to the bar and order an espresso/capuccino and a oh-so-delicious! sweet pastry with cream or chocolate (Nutella) fillings. Eat and drink it at the bar. And then leave. Simple, fast, and very cheap (~ $2). This is how we got the day started each day!

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more photos: roma

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next: Pisa e Firenze

Monday, June 19, 2006

Switzerland (Part III)

Day 16 (May 19, 2006).

Luzern & Mt. Pilatus.

Kenny, Jasen, Kelly, and Grace arrived in Baden around 7am, and I greeted them at the train station. They were arrived on a sleeper train from Vienna. I took them back to Uli's apt. for them to unload their luggage and freshin' up. We then jumped on the next train for Luzern, the lauching point to go up to Mt. Pilatus. We first took a ferry ride on the Lake Luzern that took 2 hours (much longer than expected). When we arrived at the ferry stop, we then took the cogwheel train that took us all the way up to the Pilatus. It was extremely cold at peak! All of us were under-dressed for the icy winds. Despite the chill factor, the view was breathtaking! I took over 100 pictures to prove it! We then took the cable car half way down, where there was shiny track that people could ride down on a cart. All of us rode down, and then were pulled up backwards by a cable. Not only was the ride fun, but there was the bonus of being surrounded by gorgeous landscapes. We took the cable car the rest of the way down and a short bus ride back to Luzern. Since it was now my second time in Luzern, I was the tour guide, which basically just consisted of me walking with them across the famous old wooden bridge.

We then got back on the train to meet up with Uli for dinner. The original plan was to eat (cheese) Fondue at her place. But she told us cautionary tales that deterred us from indulging in the traditional Swiss dish. First, she warned us of the fact that it would "stink" so we might not be able to sleep engulfed in the cheese fumes. Second, she cautioned us with experiences of other foreigners with foreign stomachs who couldn't stomach the heavy heavy meal. So, perhaps wisely, we decided to bypass the potential for intestinal misery and head to Zurich to eat at a traditional Swiss-German restaurant. The wait for a table was a couple hours, so we decided to get an appetizer... "the best Bratwurst in Zurich"! It would be the newcomers first time, but it would be my third experience of the scrumptious sausage! We then went back to the restaurant. The restaurant was completely decked out with quirky and traditional objects, and served typical cuisine of meat, potatoes, and beer! Kenny, Uli, and I started off with a Dunkelweizen (dark Hefeweizen). It was one of the best beers I've ever had. It was smooth and full of flavor. Like Uli says, German beers are so smooth and go down so easily that you'll have guzzled several pints before you realize it. I ate veal in a white wine mushroom gravy, served with Swiss-style potatoes (hash browns). The food was very salty, but it was ideal beer food. Kenny and his sister shared a sausage that was cooked and served on a sword (that's right a medieval-looking sword)!!! You could order sausage by the meter! And, some other tables were served drinks gigantic cognac glasses the size the human head and lit on fire! It was all quite the spectacle!

Day 17 (May 20, 2006).

Zurich (and Baden).

We all took our time to get ready in the morning, and then went to Zurich. For lunch, there was no dispute on the destination... that's right, more Bratwurst! It was my fourth time to eat at my favorite food stand. Four times in a week, and I still was not sick of eating it! We wandered the streets as we searched for the cafe known for it's hot chocolate, but failed to find it to my disappointment. We then sat by the lake and relaxed there for a while, watching the swans and ducks swim back and forth searching for pieces of bread.
We headed back to Baden, and I showed them around the old town. We hiked up to the old castle, and then ate Kebap for dinner. We returned to Uli's to chill for a little bit, and then took our backpacks back to Zurich to catch our sleeper trains. Kenny and Jasen were on their way back to London to fly back to the states. Kelly, Grace, and I were on our way to Roma.

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more photos: switzerland (part iii)

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next: Roma

Thursday, June 15, 2006

Switzerland (Part II)

Day 12 (May 15, 2006).

Baden

Being Monday, Uli had to work. So for the rest of the week, I would be exploring the Swiss towns on my own. This day, I decided to check out the town where I was staying. It is a very small town. The heart of it consists of medieval Swiss buildings lining cobblestone streets, and at the center are the remnants of an old castle perched on a steep hill.

In the evening, I went to bathe in the local hot springs (ThermalBaden), which was a short walking distance down the street. I marinated in the mineral bath for about an hour (until my fingers pruned), while gazing up into the blue and white sky and surrounded by the bloom of Spring. I wanted to soak longer, but then I would have looked like a California raisin.

I was still battling an annoying cold, so my sightseeing ambitions had tempered considerably compared to my first week. So it was very nice to wallow in the charming ambience of a small slow-paced town.

Day 13 (May 16, 2006).

Woke up, ate breakfast, dressed, and headed out the door to visit my next Swiss town. Locked the door, walked halfway down the stairs, and looked out the window. Rain. 180 degrees, and back into the apartment. I was not in the mood to walk in the cold rain at the peak of sickness. So I decided to use my first sick day and rest. I watched two DVDs: Imagining Argentina, and a Swiss movie (Snow White) that portrayed the common usage of cocaine in the high society of Zurich.

Day 14 (May 17, 2006).

Basel.

I took a daytrip to Basel. From the train station, I walked across town to the "old" town. I hiked up a tower of a small cathedral, and was the only one up there. At the top was the base of the gothic spire. Then I walked to a peculiar-looking fountain that had several mechanical robots spraying and splashing water in a pool of water. It was the best fountain ever! I was quite fascinated with it, so I decided to eat lunch (lamb Kebap) there. It seemed to be a popular spot for locals to eat lunch and take their kids. I wandered the streets some more and sat by the river, and then visited the main cathedral of the town.

When I got back to Baden, I hit up the grocery store for a food adventure. It's always fun to browse grocery stores in foreign countries!

Day 15 (May 18, 2006).

Bern.

Another rainy day, and I still had a cold. Despite this, I took a daytrip to Bern. I visited the Einstein House, where he lived for two and a half years. He developed the Special Theory of Relativity and began work on the General Theory of Relativity here. Not much to see... just a small apartment with random objects, quotes and facts, and a video. I walked the arcade of shops, which was good because it sheltered me from the rain. Saw the main cathedral. There was also a bear pit (with live bears), which was one of the attractions of the city. But I had no interest in seeing captive bears in a Swiss town... it just seemed odd.

After seeing multiple Swiss towns, I began to feel like I was seeing the same things over again. In each, I noticed a river running through it, high bridges arching over the river/valley, a main gothic cathedral, an "old" and "new" part, and a main street of shops. And of course, there are the grassy green hills/mountains that surround the towns. The most noticeable observation was the that they are all very very small. They are more like villages, than cities. One can easily see two towns (maybe three) in a single day.

On the train back to Baden, it was during rush hour. I sat in first class, and it was completely full with business people. Every single seat occupied by a businessman who was busily talking on the phone and typing on his laptop. A true testament to the money machine that is Switzerland.

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baden

basel


video: basel fountain
more photos: switzerland (part ii)

Wednesday, June 14, 2006

Switzerland (Part I)

Day 9 (May 12, 2006).

Barcelona to Baden.

The next destination was Baden (15 min. from Zurich) Switzerland to stay at my friend Uli's place. The entire day was spent on the train traveling through Northeast Spain, Southern France, and Switzerland. There were four transfers total. The highlight of the train ride was passing along the gorgeous Costa Brava coast of Spain and through the green countryside of Southern France.

When I arrived in Baden at around 11:30pm, I was greeted with a familiar and friendly smile. And then walked into a freshly prepared home-cooked meal. The mouth-watering dinner consisted of bread, salad, Filet Mignon, potatoes, green beans, and a fantastic Italian wine (Amarone della Valpolicella). I was so grateful for such a delicious meal and the fact that she waited for me to eat dinner. We chatted until the strong wine and our exhausting longs days caught up with us.

On my last night in Barcelona, I started to feel the effects of a cold. My fast-paced (and perhaps overly-ambitious) first week began to take its toll on my body. So it was a true blessing to be able to stay in the comfort of a friend's home.

Day 10 (May 13, 2006).

Zürich.

For breakfast, I woke up to a smorgasbord of deli meats, swiss cheeses, bread (including Gipfli, the yummy Swiss-German version of the croissant), juices, and Café Crème. Then we headed to Zürich by train, and went up a mountain with a lookout point overlooking the city and Lake Zürich. Uli pointed out the Gold Coast along the lakeside, which is where richest of rich live. We then walked through the city and down the main street that is lined with expensive shops of Swiss watches and clothing. And then the climax of my first time in Zürich... "the best Bratwurst in Zürich"!!! Uli said this place was even featured on a Japanese food show. And if you've ever seen one of these shows, you know everything they feature looks f-ing "oishi"!!! The mouth-watering sausage is served with the most potent mustard sauce (so good!) that clears your sinuses (i think they make it with horse radish) and also the most delectable roll that is baked using charcoals. And wash it all down with a refreshing beer. Fortunately for me Uli could only finish half, so I got more than one! The next thing on the food tour was the famous Swiss sweet treat, Luxemburgerli. It's like a mini sandwich of sweet paste between two meringue buns. I got one of each flavor (lemon, strawberry, champagne, chocolate, citrus, mocha, ...)! Then for dinner, we went back to Baden. Uli cooked my favorite Swabian dish (actually, the only one I know of), Spätzle. Words cannot describe how much I love this stuff! I could eat so much that my heart will explode! Perhaps it is better that I only get to eat it when I'm in Europe or when Uli visits the states.

Day 11 (May 14, 2006).

Luzern (Lucerne).
For breakfast, we got Gipfli and Café Crème at the train station, and headed to Lucerne. After we arrived in Luzern, we took a ferry on Lake Lucerne and then took a cogwheel train up to Mount Rigi. The ferry ride featured the mirror-like lake, green mountains, and the snow-capped Swiss Alps in the background. And Mt Rigi featured breathtaking views of Lake Lucerne and the vivid green land around it. Fortunately, we got a clear view of the land beneath us before the thick clouds consumed the peak. We decided to hike down to where the cable-car would take us the rest of the way down to the ferry stop, instead of taking the train. On our way down, we passed by many charming Swiss chalet. It would be so nice to rent out one of these chalet, make some Swiss hot chocolate, and just relax for a week in the isolated mountainside! On the ferry ride back to Lucerne, we drank some Swiss white wine while basking in the natural beauty surrounding us. Then to make the Luzern trip official, we walked across its famous wooden bridge.

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bratwurst! and luxemburgerli.


Rigi.




more pics: switzerland (part i)

Monday, June 12, 2006

Sevilla y Barcelona

Day 6 (May 9, 2006).

Sevilla.

Took sleeper train from Barcelona. On the train, my bunk mate was Andrés. He works and lives in Barcelona with his wife and son, Lorenzo. His parents are in Cadiz, where he was headed. He spoke very little English, and I relied on my forgotten two years of high school Spanish. But we managed to carry on fun conversations through charades and fragmented sentences. We went to the lounge car and he bought me a cerveza. And in the morning, I bought him un café. I love meeting different people from other parts of the world. That was one of the most enjoyable experiences of my trip.

I arrived in Sevilla around 9am. While waiting for the bus to the hostel, I met two women from Taiwan, who were visiting Sevilla on a day trip. They were traveling on their own as well. Then I met Travis and Jessie, who were both from D.C. Travis was fluent in Spanish, and had been a exchange in Badajoz (Spain) when he was sixteen. Jessie graduated from U. of Arizona and now lives back home in DC.

The hostel was great! I think the interiors of Spanish buildings are just as (if not more) charming as the facades. For most, the rooms line the outer perimeter of the structure, while the center (from top to bottom) are hollowed, allowing natural light to cascade all the way down to courtyard/lounge at the bottom. Best of all, the hostel had an automated espresso machine, serving free café all day long! The small lounge was always populated with guests, so it was easy to meet people. I met people from Sydney, Ventura (CA), and England.

After checking in, I went to the Alcázar with Travis and Jessie. While in line, we met a couple from Wales. The husband taught Spanish and French at a boarding school, while the wife was the headmaster. They told us interesting insight on Wales and its bitter tension with England. They had two sons and a daughter, who are musicians and an architect. The Alcazar has a beautiful garden and the architecture is unique because of its Islamic influence.

For lunch, the lady at the tourist office recommended a wonderful place for Bocadillos and Tapas. It was called Patio Saneloy. They had a large selection of Bocadillos (Spanish sandwiches) that were ready made, and were toasted when ordered. I ordered a Montadito Sevillano (tuna sandwich), Empanada, and Latino (tasted like wine and Sprite). It was cheap, fast, and delectable.

Then, I had my first experience of the infamous Spanish siesta. It may be a brilliant idea for the everyday worker, but it is an annoyance for tourists! Everything (everything!) closed from 3-5pm. As a local, I would relish in the siesta in order to escape the scorching summer heat. But as a tourist, you might as join the locals in their mid-day slumber because there isn't much else to do.

Day 7 (May 10, 2006).

Sevilla.

I re-joined Travis and Jessie. Travis was great to have around because he spoke fluent Spanish. We went to the city's beautiful bullring. Travis and I really wanted to see a bullfight, but they usually only occur on Sundays. I just have to wait until my next trip to Spain. So we had to settle on a paid tour (with a shitty tour guide), which was the only way to see the inside. We then went to see the Cathedral, which is one the largest in the world. It is gi-normous! Unfortunately it closed early, so I had to appreciate the massiveness from the exterior. Then we went to see the Plaza de España.

For lunch, why change a good thing? So we returned to Patio Saneloy for more damn good cheap eats. This time I ordered a Bocadillo, Gazpacho, and un cerveza (Cruz Campo... I didn't like it). The Gazpacho was much thicker (like a puree) than the previous one, but it was f**king good! Best one I've ever had!... which doesn't say much since it was only my second one in my life.

At night, we went to a Tapas bar. (In route, we walked under shrieking bats circling the Cathedral, while the moon loomed overhead. It was quite wicked!). We ate mucho bueno tapas, and got sauced up on two pitchers of Sangria! It just so happened that on this evening, Sevilla was playing Dublin for a futbol (soccer) championship. So while having dinner we could see fans running out of pubs and celebrating everytime their team scored. Then after the game ended and Sevilla won, groups of fans wandered the streets chanting, singing, and dancing to anyone and everyone they saw. And once in a while cars would wine through the narrow streets, honking and waving their flags. It was very entertaining!

To end the night, we went to a pub and watched a free Flamenco performance. I love the energy and raw emotion of Flamenco. Unfortunately, it was short... b/c it was free. So that's another incentive to return to Spain. Plus, I painfully regret not experiencing the (hot) chocolate con churros!!! I love the friendliness and charm of Sevilla.


Day 8 (May 11, 2006).

Barcelona.

On the train back to Barcelona, the guy sitting next to me had horrible body odor! To make things worse, he was fidgety and could not keep still. He kept leaning forward to change the radio settings and then would slam back into the chair, waking me up every time. I had to bear several hours of this!

For the remainder of the day in Barcelona, I visited the Casa Milà (La Pedrera), by Antoni Gaudi. I've always had an interest in architecture. But after learning of Gaudi, that interest has escalated ten-fold!

In my dorm, I met two guys from Denmark. I don't know what it is about people from Denmark, but all the ones I have met are the most cheery people. Quick to smile, and do it infectiously. In talking about Americans backpacking, one of them muttered a remark aside about Bush. In many non-Americans (i.e. Canadians, Europeans) I have met on my trips, they are quick to show their disaproval and dislike of Bush. It's quite fascinating to get such a prevalent international perspective.

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alcazar

plaza de espana




casa mila (la pedrera)



photo album: sevilla y barcelona

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"architecture is the ordering of light." - antoni gaudi

Thursday, June 08, 2006

Girona y Barcelona

Day 4 (May 7, 2006).

Paris / Beauvais.
Woke up at 4:30am in order to catch a bus to Beauvais Airport (an hour outside of Paris). Metro did not start until 5:30am, so I walked 50 minutes (with my backpack) across Paris to the bus location. In a strange way, it was sort of fun. In route, I saw two sides of late night Paris. The first part included passing peep shows, clubs, and pubs. People were just getting out, lingering in the streets, and satisfying their munchies. The second part consisted of dark high class residential streets and no one on the streets (except me). Here, I walked with my cell phone (off) attached to my ear while talking and singing gibberish in both Chinese and English to myself. This was a comical attempt for precaution, but in retrospect it was mostly for self-entertainment.

Girona.

My flight from Beauvais was not directly into Barcelona. It arrived in Girona. So I decided to explore the small town. I wandered the medieval cathedral and the maze-like courtyards and gardens that surround it. For lunch I ate Gazpacho, Valencia Paella, Catalunya Creme, and cafe con leche. I never thought I would like a cold soup, but Gazpacho is damn delicious! You have to try it to believe it. Paella, I love Paella!!! Catalunya Creme, very similar to Creme Brulee.

Barcelona.

On my train to Barcelona, I met Kelly. She was from the Pleasant Hill CA (Bay Area) and lived in San Diego. She met her husband, who is from Spain, in SD. And eventually moved to Barcelona. We talked about the economy in Barcelona. She told me that the corporate ladder has a low ceiling. And, many people try to start their own businesses because of little work opportunities.

After I checked into my hostel, I walked out and the street was crowded with hollering soccer fans and honking cars and buses. Day before, the Barcelona soccer team won the regional championship. The rowdy fans partaking in the parade fiesta, eagerly awaiting for the team bus to pass by. People were on top of news stands and telephone booths. Carefree singing, dancing, and chanting [video]. It was invigorating just to be in that electric atmosphere. Eventually, the team came through and the street exploded! "Campeones!... Campeones!..." One thing the Spanish have (that I revere) is uninhibited zeal.

The rest of the night was spent roaming the many crowded streets of Las Ramblas. On a late Sunday evening, it seemed people were just getting their day started... which they probably were.

Day 5 (May 8, 2006).

Barcelona.

I signed up for a four hour walking tour of the works of the brilliant Antoni Gaudi. The tour guides name was Jordi. Gaudi's architecture is so unique and outstanding in the city that people refer to Barcelona as the "Barcelona of Gaudi". I was utterly amazed with not only the genius of this man, but also his philosophy towards his craft. Nature was his true inspiration. In that, none of his works included straight lines (b/c there are no straight lines in nature). So throughout his artworks, you can find the likeness of things in everyday life (i.e. snail shells, ocean waves, bones). And he was not only an artist, but also a very keen in engineer. He must have oversaw several projects simultaneously and not slept at all. In those days, the architect designed every aspect of a building from top to bottom, inside and out... which makes his feat that much more impressive. His most ambitious project is still in progress to this day. When he designed La Sagrada Familia, he knew he would not see the completion in his lifetime. The expected completion date is 2050!

On the tour, I met Simon. He was from Sydney, but no lives in Dublin, where he plays professional Rugby (position forward). He did not paint a pretty picture of Dublin... said it rains all the time and the winters are harsh (his words "suicide watch"). He shared my love of Paella, so we grabbed lunch. Except, this time I tried the noodle version of Paella (instead of rice).
Later wandered through Las Ramblas, Barri Gotic, and the beach. There was one cathedral that was wrapped by narrow alleyways, and around every corner there was a different street performer. A violin player performing Canon in D, spanish guitar, and an opera singer... each echoing the quiet alleways.

...

Girona



Park Güell (Antoni Gaudi)


video: futbol fans
more pics: photo album